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Unbelievable RC

Tyrrell P34 Six-Wheeler (2010 re-release)

tamiya tyrrell 6-wheeler

Summary

  • Model #: 84111
  • Gallery: View
  • Released: 2010
  • Prebuilt: No
  • Category: Cars
  • Chassis: F103
  • Scale: 1/10
  • Use: Onroad
  • Style: Open-wheel
  • Config: MR
  • Driveline: Direct drive
  • Body: Polycarbonate
  • Finished body: No
  • Susp. front: Half wishbone
  • Susp. rear: T-plate

Photo gallery samples

Visit the full Tamiya Tyrrell 6-Wheeler gallery >

 

JANG's Impressions

The Tyrrell Six Wheeler is one of the more bizarre real-world vehicles Tamiya has faithfully reproduced as a radio controlled scale model. This was first released all the way back in 1977, in homage to the then-current full-scale car. It was Tamiya RC kit #3 and used a 380-sized motor and a flexible thin aluminum chassis of fairly typical design for its day, save the extra set of steerable wheels up front. It was then "re-released" in 2000, but on a completely different chassis based on the popular F103. This F103-derived version re-appeared in 2004 as a ready to run XB set, and in 2010 it hit store shelves yet again, but this time with the somewhat different body style that campaigned in the 1976 Japan Grand Prix.

As a 1:1 scale Formula 1 racer, the Tyrrell Six-Wheeler was revolutionary and had great potential over its legislatively-abbreviated career. As an RC car, it is nothing but a novelty. The rear section on the 2010 version I built here is all standard F103 with a disc-style friction damper, single spring, and flexible T plate. Up front, each tire has a tiny bit of suspension movement theoretically possible thanks to kingpin-mounted springs, but in practice these springs are far too stiff to do anything. All four front wheels turn together, and though there is some Ackerman angle in play, the wheels on each side turn at the same rate rather than following independent arcs, for simplicity. The rear rubber tires are huge, but the light weight of the model fails to provide enough normal force to develop good traction. Even with a treatment of traction compound and using the stock silver can motor, the car exhibits a tremendous amount of power oversteer.

As an RC to drive, this car probably needs more work than it's worth. As a Tamiya collector's oddity, it's absolutely brilliant.

Video

Build & Tips

See the full illustrated build-up process in the Tamiya Tyrrell 6-Wheeler build thread on the forum.

  • In step 9, try to minimize the side to side play in the shaft before you tighten down the last grub screw. Don't squish the hex adapters down as tightly as possible, just give an absolute minimal gap to the inside so they don't quite ride on the bearings.
  • In step 11, I assembled the unit with Tamiya Medium Friction Damper Grease. Smooths the motion out a lot and makes it consistent by virtually eliminating stiction.
  • In step 17, apply the tape to the chassis, then snap on the ball ends before you push the servo down onto it, to help you get a feel for how it will all line up. Pay attention to the diagram at the upper left showing how far forward the servo goes, and how the spline must be aligned with the centerline of the chassis.
  • In step 18, be sure to use that recommended bit of double-sided tape between the ESC and the front of the battery tray. A piece on the chassis floor really isn't enough.
  • Pay very close attention to the holes in the spur gear for the diff balls. On one side there are two little molded stoppers to keep the balls from coming out that side. Insert the balls from the other side, or it will be exceessively difficult.
  • I didn't research whether this is a consistent issue, but my kit came with foam inserts for sedan wheels. Completely useless for these big F1 tires. I don't have any tips for working around that. Get new foams or run none.
  • I went with the Scheckter paint scheme. To make detailing the driver base easier & faster, I painted the entire underside with the Corsa Gray, then removed the overspray film from the steering wheel and mounting tabs and painted the top with black. The only hand painting I then had to do was the white of the gloves.
  • I had to trim about 4mm off the rearmost, essentially non-visible ends of the side mirror pieces to help clear the driver attachments.
  • For the rear wing, adhere each pair of vertical stabs with double-sided tape, then drill the mounting holes together to ensure perfect alignment.
  • Be sure to cut out the rear body mounting holes oblong as marked, not circular.
  • Be mindful of inner body clearance around the rear damper adjusting assembly. Enlarge the big hole if needed.